How Is Aso Oke Made? Explore Nigeria's Sustainable Fabric

September 6, 2024

The Roots of Aso Oke

Historically, people have chosen Aso Oke for significant life events such as weddings, chieftaincy ceremonies, and other festive occasions. Beyond its cultural significance, artisans sustainably produce the fabric, following a practice passed down through generations, with its essence remaining virtually unchanged.

There are three main types of Aso Oke, each with its distinct characteristics:

Before getting into the intricate process of how Aso Oke is made, it’s essential to understand  what it is and its cultural significance. Aso Oke which translates to “Top Cloth,” is also known as ‘Aso Ofi’ and it originates from the Yoruba people of southwestern Nigeria.

1. Sanyan

We weave Sanyan from the silk of the African Anaphe worm and cotton yarns, giving it its signature carton brown color. This variety is one of the original and most revered forms of this fabric, traditionally made from domestic wild raw silk. Before modern technology, creating Sanyan required the collection of thousands of moth cocoons, carefully unravelling their silk yarns to spin into thread.

Sanyan Aso-Oke. Courtesy of Woven Market Africa

2. Alaari

We weave Alaari with either synthetically grown cotton or shiny threads, which gives it a distinctive glossy finish. This type is popular for its vibrant and eye-catching appearance, often used in celebratory attire.

Alaari Asooke made by Woven Market Africa
Alaari Aso-Oke courtesy of Woven Market Africa

3. Etu

Typically indigo-colored with tiny stripes of various colors, we weave Etu to be valued for its simplicity and style. Consequently, this style of fabric is often chosen for its understated elegance.

Modern day authentic Aso Oke fabric made by Woven Market Africa
Etu Aso-Oke courtesy of Woven Market Africa

In today’s Nigerian market, producers commonly make modern versions of this fabric from imported polycotton threads, using colors that mimic those originally derived from raw silk. However, the essence of these traditional varieties remains intact, reflecting the heritage and craftsmanship of the Yoruba people.

At Woven Market Africa, we take pride in producing this iconic fabric while also preserving the rich tradition and artistry behind it. As the leading producer of this elegant fabric in Nigeria, we aim to educate, inspire, and invite you to experience its beauty, woven with heritage and sustainability. In this post, we will explore how cotton Aso Oke is traditionally made.

The Process of Making Aso Oke

Creating this sustainable fabric involves an intricate process with several meticulous steps:

1. Cotton Seed Extraction:

The process begins in the fields where we handpick cotton. We meticulously extract the seeds by hand using a simple method involving a wooden block and an iron rod. This traditional technique ensures that nothing goes to waste. We set aside the cotton fibers for spinning while preserving the seeds for future planting. Thus, this cycle of use and reuse serves as a cornerstone of Aso Oke’s sustainability.

African farmers picking cotton to make into yarn for Aso Oke
Farmers harvesting cotton to be used to make thread for weaving

2. Spinning the Yarn:

Next, we spin the cotton using a locally made spindle known as “Orun.” As we turn the spindle, it rotates the cotton fibers into fine threads. Afterward, we sort these threads, carefully removing dirt and impurities to ensure the highest quality.

Following this, we can either use the thread in its natural, creamish-white form or dye it to create the vibrant and significant colors for which Aso Oke is renowned.

Madam Tinuade, sister of Ewi Daniel Aladesanmi II of Ado Ekiti at a spinning exhibition before learners.
Madam Tinuade, sister of Ewi Daniel Aladesanmi II of Ado Ekiti at a spinning exhibition before learners.

3. Setting Up the Loom:

We prepare the yarn for weaving next. Artisans meticulously arrange the yarn on a loom, aligning the threads for precise weaving. As a result, this task typically takes between 2 to 4 hours.

Colorful Yarn carefully arranged on a loom to create authentic aso oke fabric. Photo courtesy of woven market africa
Yarn carefully arranged on a loom. Photo Courtesy of Woven Market Africa

4. Weaving the Fabric:

We pass the loom, the heart of the weaving process, down through generations. In traditional weaving, we use two main types of looms: women use the upright single heddle loom, while men use the horizontal double heddle loom. Each loom offers different capabilities, enabling a variety of widths, patterns, and designs.

After preparing the thread, we can either use it in its natural, creamish-white form or dye it to create the vibrant and significant colors for which the fabric is renowned.

Image of a male aso oke weaver in the 19th Century using a horizontal double heddle loom, one of the earliest known photos of aso oke production.
Image of a male aso oke weaver in the 19th Century using a horizontal double heddle loom, one of the earliest known photos of aso oke production. Photographer unknown, courtesy Foreign & Commonwealth Office Archive, London.
Image of a male aso oke weaver using a horizontal double heddle loom. (Circa 2020)
Image of a male aso oke weaver using a horizontal double heddle loom, courtesy of Woven Market Africa. (Circa 2020)
An African female aso oke weaver in the 19th Century using a single heddle loom, one of the earliest known photos of Aso Oke production. .
Image of a female aso oke weaver in the 19th Century using a single heddle loom, one of the earliest known photos of Aso Oke production. Photographer unknown.
An African female aso oke weaver using a single heddle loom. (Circa 2020)
Image of a female aso oke weaver using a single heddle loom, courtesy of Woven Market Africa. (Circa 2020)

Skilled weavers use handlooms to create intricate patterns by interlacing yarn. This step requires considerable time, with each strip of fabric taking days or even weeks to complete.

In the weaving process, weavers interlace warp (vertical) and weft (horizontal) threads at right angles to form the fabric. They use a shuttle to pass the weft threads through the warp, carefully following a predetermined pattern. Consequently, the fabric displays a stunning, intricate design that showcases the weaver’s skill and highlights the cultural significance of the fabric.

Finished authentic customised white and burgundy authentic Aso Oke fabric photographed artfully on a frame
Finished customised Aso Oke by Woven Market Africa

The Sustainability of Aso Oke

Artisans root every step of the Aso Oke making process, from cotton seed extraction to the final weaving, in eco-friendly practices. They use natural materials, hand-spin yarn, and rely on manual weaving techniques to ensure minimal energy consumption, making it one of the most sustainable fabrics available.

This beautiful fabric’s durability further enhances its sustainability. Unlike mass-produced textiles that wear out quickly, this fabric is made to last and is often passed down through generations. In a world dominated by fast fashion, it offers a timeless alternative that values quality, craftsmanship, and environmental responsibility.

At Woven Market Africa, we are committed to preserving the tradition of this treasures Nigerian fabric while embracing innovation. Our weavers masterfully combine traditional techniques with modern designs to create fabrics that are both timeless and contemporary.

We are proud to be the custodians of this legacy, bringing you the finest fabrics that honour tradition, support sustainability, and inspire future generations.

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